We offer a limited
number of refinishing option, but they cover a broad range of applications.
Depending on the type of furniture you have, condition and age of the
wood, value and or personal preference we can determine which option
is right for you.
Sometimes we get
"valuable" antiques; those that require nothing but a good
cleaning to be done to the woodwork. These are usually pieces of historical
importance - ones that serve as time capsules of a particular era, or
very old family heirlooms. Most often, the pieces we receive don't fall
under this category; even the older ones. However, just because a particular
piece of furniture is old doesn't make it valuable. If you're unsure
what treatment your furniture needs, you should talk with a professional
dealer of antiques, and they can help you date, evaluate and appraise
it, as well as give you restoration advice. You could also try searching
for information on your own. There are countless books and as many websites
on the subject. For some good articles on restoration try http://www.antiqueresources.com
. Another fine source is http://www.antiquerestorers.com
If your furniture
is in good condition with only minor scrapes or worn areas, then "touching-up"
the wood is probably the most sensible thing to do. Touching-up entails
cleaning the wood, rubbing stain or pigments over the damaged areas
and clear coating or polishing to mach the original finish.
Older pieces usually
have rubbed oil finishes of some sort. Again, depending on the age and
condition, we might suggest and oil finish such as Linseed Oil or Tung
Oil. These finishes are not as durable as ones that are clear coated,
but they do protect the wood, provide an authentic looking finish and
saturate otherwise dry wood with necessary oils.
However, we mostly
receive furniture that requires the works: striping, sanding, staining
and finish. Most customers desire this treatment as it is like getting
a new piece of furniture. We start by evaluating the particular piece
of furniture to understand what level of treatment it will require.
Older pieces (like the rocker in the illustrations) need to be re-glued
since the joints begin to loosen with age. In these cases the individual
pieces of the chair are carefully taken apart, dowel holes are cleaned
out, then the pieces are glued, reassembled, clamped and left to dry
overnight. Depending on the abuse the furniture has seen over the years
it is then sanded with progressively finer grits of sandpaper until
220 grit is reached. After tack raging, we then apply the stain.
can request particular types of finishes for your furniture, we generally
use oil-based stain with lacquer topcoats. This method produces the
best results. Water based stains are touted as "good for the environment"
- and that may well be so -but they are not good for wood. Over time
wood begins to lose its natural oils and so becomes more brittle and
dried out, and the older it gets - the drier it becomes. Water based
stains will easily darken the wood (sometimes too much), but they do
nothing for replenishing the wood. Oil stains apply pigment evenly while
at the same time soaking life-giving oil back into the wood. As for
the topcoats, lacquer tends to be more "flexible" and is more
forgiving (doesn't show scratches as much) than poly-based products.
In addition, polyurethane tends to look more plastic-like even with
the satin and flat finishes. Lacquer gives a nice sheen while letting
the beauty of the wood show through.
stain is applied and the excess wiped away, it is left to dry over night.
Once dry, the topcoat can be added. We apply several coats of clear
sanding lightly between coats to ensure a smooth quality finish.
method you choose, rest assured that you will receive the highest quality
workmanship that any upholstery shop can produce. Our refinisher has
over 15 years experience and has dedicated himself to his art.